water clear epoxy
Building 60 gal tank advice needed?
I am converting my parents old 1985 Mitsubishi 36″ oak TV into a fish tank. I am trying to figure out what thickness glass I will need, the front and back will be 33″W x 26″H and it will be 16″ deep. Since it will be so tall, will I need to go up to 1/2″ glass or should 3/8″ do the trick?
I was also considering getting one sheet of 1/2″ for the front only, and finishing the rest in fiberglass for strength with a top layer of carbon fiber (since you can’t really see the sides or back of the tank). I’m just not sure how this would effect the water in the tank. Would the epoxy resin be ok if I make sure it is fully cured before adding the water, or would a clear gel coat be better?
You really should go 1/2″ just because of the height (as soon as you went over 24″ you increased the need from 3/8″).
Fiberglass/carbon fiber sounds nice (but expensive and time consuming) and still needs to be sealed with an epoxy paint safe for potable water anyway… why not simply build it from marine grade plywood? Simpler to work with and can “slide” into the housing once the TV is gutted.
Try this site http://www.garf.org/Tank/BuildTank.asp to get the actual build “cut list” for that,or any other configuration.
water clear epoxy
Steps Involved in Coating Your Garage Floor
Epoxy will not only tops off the look but it also resists oil stains, beads water, and wipes clean like a kitchen offset. If you spend any time at all in your garage, you will understand the draw of having an epoxy-coated concrete floor: the flawless appearance, the easy cleanup, and the robust surface makes working in the garage a much more pleasant experience. There are four steps involved in properly coating your garage floor with epoxy. First you must etch and clean the concrete. Next you should seal the concrete. Third you should apply the epoxy and color chips. Fourth and lastly you should apply a clear topcoat. Doing all these four steps will assure you that your epoxy garage floor coating would last for years without any problems.
Do not apply epoxy flooring when an exterior or air temperature is below 50°F (10°C). Before you start, if you notice any tiny crystals or white powder on your floor, it is moisture migrating through the concrete which would often cause peel up of any kind of coating you apply. So test your concrete by putting a rubber mat on the floor or a tape down a 3 by 3 ft sheet of plastic. Stay overnight. If water collects in between it and the floor there is a moisture problem and any kind of floor epoxy will possibly not cure or dry properly.
To apply an epoxy coating to your flooring, first you should clean and etch the concrete to set up it for the epoxy. Etching will make the concrete to have a rougher texture which would give the epoxy a better surface to for adhesion. Remember that the epoxy is only as good as prep work, so understand this is the most important step in any of the epoxy floor coating process. If your concrete has been treated with cement sealer then no epoxy will stick into it. To check your garage floor, pour water on the cement. It should soak into the cement in a sensible time. If it bead up or just sit there for a long time, then the concrete has been sealed or it is oil contaminated.
If the concrete is new and also does not have deep oil contamination it still needs to be etched. The concrete garage floor must resemble 100 grit sandpaper (or more coarse) if once the etching is completed so that the new epoxy coating will adhere properly.
Second, you must seal the concrete so as to keep out moisture and to provide an additional bonding coat for the epoxy. Third, apply the epoxy basecoat material by either brush, roller or spray. If the floor is moist, or the air is musty, then the epoxy would not bond very well, so wait until the conditions are appropriate. Do not apply when surface or air temperature is below 50F. Finally, you must apply a clear topcoat to the epoxy floor. This would make cleaning of the floors easy and add a glossy finish.
About the Author
Jacob Christopher is a SEO copywriter for Protective Coating Texas and Waterborne Coating texas. He has written many articles in various topics like Swimming Pool Paints, Basement Floor Coating, Texas leather coating, Protective Coating Texas. For more information visit: http://www.asc-tx.com Contact him at jacob123seo@gmail.com
Building 60 gal tank advice needed?
I am converting my parents old 1985 Mitsubishi 36″ oak TV into a fish tank. I am trying to figure out what thickness glass I will need, the front and back will be 33″W x 26″H and it will be 16″ deep. Since it will be so tall, will I need to go up to 1/2″ glass or should 3/8″ do the trick?
I was also considering getting one sheet of 1/2″ for the front only, and finishing the rest in fiberglass for strength with a top layer of carbon fiber (since you can’t really see the sides or back of the tank). I’m just not sure how this would effect the water in the tank. Would the epoxy resin be ok if I make sure it is fully cured before adding the water, or would a clear gel coat be better?
You really should go 1/2″ just because of the height (as soon as you went over 24″ you increased the need from 3/8″).
Fiberglass/carbon fiber sounds nice (but expensive and time consuming) and still needs to be sealed with an epoxy paint safe for potable water anyway… why not simply build it from marine grade plywood? Simpler to work with and can “slide” into the housing once the TV is gutted.
Try this site http://www.garf.org/Tank/BuildTank.asp to get the actual build “cut list” for that,or any other configuration.
Nansulate EPX water-based Epoxy System
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